JP Real Estate Buying
Buying The Frost Line For homeowners

The frost line, getting the house ready before the cold

Fall is the cheapest season to protect a home. An hour of work now, on water lines, the furnace, and a few outside jobs, heads off the burst pipes and frozen taps that cost thousands in January. We start with the question everyone asks, whether to cover the air conditioner, because the answer depends on something important most people miss, then move through the full checklist you can print.

11 min read Free to read, always Greater Toronto Area

The AC cover, done properly

The outdoor unit of your air conditioner is built to live outside, through every season. Snow and cold are not what damages it. In fact, the manufacturer Lennox advises against wrapping it in a full cover: a full cover traps moisture, which can cause rust and corrosion and can freeze on the coils, it gives rodents a warm place to nest over winter, and some covers can even affect the warranty.

If your only worry is falling leaves and ice dripping from the roof, the fix is simple. Cover just the top, with a breathable cover or even a board weighted down, and leave the sides fully open so air can move and moisture can escape. Before you do, clean the leaves and debris out of the unit and hose the fins down gently.

If it is a heat pump, do not cover it at all

A heat pump looks like an air conditioner but works all winter, because in winter it is heating your home. Covering it, even the top, can block airflow and trap the moisture it sheds during its defrost cycle. Instead, keep snow cleared away from it after every snowfall, leave the defrost cycle alone to do its job, and if heavy ice builds up, turn the unit off and call a contractor, or melt it with warm water. Never chip at the ice. How to tell what you have: if the outdoor unit runs during winter, or your thermostat has a heat pump or auxiliary heat setting, it is a heat pump.

One more thing, if you cut the power

Some people switch off the outdoor electrical disconnect for the winter. If you do, switch it back on at least a day before you first run the system in spring. The compressor has a crankcase heater that needs time to warm up before startup. This is general manufacturer guidance, so it is worth asking your HVAC contractor about your specific unit.

What a new system costs, for context

If your AC is near the end of its life, one provider's 2026 estimate (Enercare) puts a new high-efficiency central air conditioner at roughly $4,000 to $6,000 installed for a typical system, with about a 15-year lifespan, and more for larger or premium systems. Treat it as a ballpark from one company, not a quote.

The fall checklist

This is your printable. Work through it once before the first hard freeze, and tick each item as you go.

Done for the year: ________________

Water

  • Disconnect and drain all garden hoses
  • Shut the interior valve to each outdoor tap, then open the outside tap to drain it (even frost-free taps need their hoses removed)
  • Blow out an in-ground irrigation system before the freeze (a pro is recommended; Rain Bird suggests around 50 psi in short bursts, one zone at a time)
  • Insulate pipes in unheated areas like the garage or crawl space
  • Know where your main water shutoff is
  • Test the sump pump
  • Put downspout extensions back on after you clean the leaves out

Heat and air

  • Book furnace service with a TSSA-registered contractor
  • Put in a fresh furnace filter
  • Replace the humidifier pad and turn the humidifier on, with the damper set for winter
  • Clean the HRV filters
  • Clear vents and the gas meter of any obstruction
  • Bleed the radiators, if you have them

Outside

  • Clean eavestroughs once the leaves are down
  • Check roof shingles and flashing from the ground
  • Seal gaps where mice get in (dime-sized gaps, especially around pipes and vents)
  • Trim branches away from the house and the roofline (see The Tree Line, and never trim near power lines yourself, call the utility)
  • Store patio furniture, and keep the BBQ propane tank outside, never indoors or in the garage
  • Plan snow removal and buy salt or sand before the first storm
  • Check the garage door seal

Inside

  • Refresh weatherstripping and caulking on doors and windows
  • Reverse the ceiling fans to push warm air down
  • Test every smoke and carbon monoxide alarm (remember the carbon monoxide rules that changed on January 1, 2026)
  • Check the window wells

Ice dams, and why salt is not the answer

An ice dam is the ridge of ice that forms at the edge of a roof and backs melting snow up under the shingles. It is not really a roof problem. It is caused by heat leaking from the house into the attic, which melts the snow above, which then refreezes when it reaches the cold eaves. The real fix is air sealing and insulation in the attic, plus good attic ventilation, as NRCan's Keeping the Heat In explains. Throwing salt on the roof is not the answer and can damage shingles and gutters.

If the power goes out

A simple outage kit

Keep water for 72 hours (about 2 litres per person per day), flashlights and batteries, a phone power bank, any medications, and a printed list of key phone numbers in case your phone dies. The Government of Canada's Get Prepared site has a full list at getprepared.gc.ca.

Generator safetyNever run a portable generator indoors or in a garage, even with the door open. Keep it at least 6 metres (20 feet) from the house, with the exhaust pointed away from windows, doors, and vents. The exhaust is carbon monoxide, and it is deadly.

Frozen pipes

Keep the heat on, even in rooms you do not use. Brantford's utility guidance suggests keeping it at least 12 degrees Celsius where water enters the home. In a deep freeze, open the cabinet doors under sinks on exterior walls so warm air can reach the pipes. If a pipe does freeze, shut off the main water valve and thaw it gently with a hair dryer. Never use an open flame.

The winter-away rule most people have never read

Before you travel for the winterMany home policies include a condition that, if you are away for more than a few days during the heating season (often around 4 days, though it ranges by policy), someone must check the home each day, or the water must be shut off and the lines drained. If that condition is not met, freeze damage may not be covered. Separately, a home left vacant for an extended period, commonly 30 days, can lose coverage entirely unless you tell the insurer and arrange permission. The exact numbers vary, so read your own wording and ask your insurer.

This one matters especially if you travel home to visit family over the winter. If you are heading back to India for a wedding season trip, or away for a month, a five-minute call to your insurer or broker before you go, and someone to check the house or shut the water off, can protect you from a frozen-pipe claim being denied while you are gone.

Rebates on the big-ticket upgrades

Heat pump and insulation rebates

The federal Canada Greener Homes Grant has closed to new applications. Ontario's Home Renovation Savings Program is active, with pre-approval required before any work begins. Current amounts:

  • Cold-climate air-source heat pump: up to $7,500 for a home heated with electricity, oil, propane, or wood, but up to $2,000 for a home heated with Enbridge natural gas.
  • Ground-source heat pump: up to $12,000, or $3,000 on that same natural-gas split.
  • Attic insulation rebates are also available.

The gas versus non-gas split is the whole story here, so never plan around "$7,500" on its own. This program was active as of October 2026, but the deadline has shifted before, so confirm the current end date and amounts on homerenovationsavings.ca before you start.

Sources

A quick, honest note. This guide is general education, not professional advice. Anything involving gas, electricity, or a fuel-burning appliance should go to a licensed contractor, and the insurance points here are general, since your coverage depends on your own policy. For the winter-away rule and what your policy actually requires, confirm with your insurer or broker before you travel, and confirm any rebate amount and deadline on the program's own site before you count on it.
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